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How to cycle a first fish tank, cycling tutorial

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#fishkeeping #cycling a tank #beginner #nitrogen cycle

For those that are interested in why cycling a tank is necessary, click here. 


There are different ways to cycle a tank. Let’s go over it one by one so that you can find the best method for you.

This article is best for people that are in the process of setting up their first tank and they do not have another tank that has already been successfully cycled, and also for those that have a tank but cannot use its filter to cycle a new tank due to diseases and parasites. 



There are different methods of cycling a tank and everybody has their own preferred methods. Some people say that one way does not work for them at all when it works well for another. Of course, this is possible. Let’s go over why. 


Tap water is different everywhere. People live all over the world and so the water that one person is supplied is different from another’s . Some people have groundwater and some people have well water. Most people get reservoir water through their tap system. Also, each house can have different water tank placement and different storage. The water quality can also change based on season. Of course, it is not common for the water condition to go change all of a sudden so that healthy fish die suddenly. However, it does happen sometimes and fish keepers are not aware when this happens. It is important to understand that this can happen. 



Water that someone else gets can be totally different from the water I get. 


A lot of novice fish keepers are curious about how to setup a tank and how to do a successful cycling so they ask experienced fish keepers and get lots of answers. This exchange of information is very beneficial but when it’s fragmented, it is wise to be careful and use it as a reference. In other words, following a fellow fish keepers advice without knowing their exact circumstances is dangerous. Just because it worked for them, doesn’t mean it will work for you.

When you have fish, you should become familiar with water quality parameters such as nitrates, nitrites, ammonia, chlorine (to kill bacteria), pH, etc. Aside from these conditions, there can be differences like tank size, filter type, tank placement relative to direct sunlight, environmental temperature relative to the tank, etc. 



So what should I do?


The answer is: Purchase a water test kit and test my water supply to know its exact condition. I know a lot of people will think this is unnecessary and excessive. However, there is no need to feel overwhelmed because this step is crucial for the first tank setup and is not necessary to constantly check. After testing your initial water conditions and setting up multiple tanks, you can know a lot about your tank without testing every time.  You can risk losing your beautiful, expensive fish if you start without proper diagnosis.


Also, with this water test kit on hand, if the fish starts acting weird in the future, it can help you find the problem.

You can purchase the water test kit for around $30 and can use it around 400 times so it is not a big investment to make. 


The main conditions you can test with the kit are ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, and pH. By measuring these four parameters, you can determine whether it is a good environment for the fish to live. 



Average optimal water conditions for fish (This does not mean that fish cannot survive outside of these conditions)

Ammonia: 0

Nitrites: 0

Nitrates: 30

pH: 6~8



Once you set the tank, put in the fish, turned on the filter and tested the water conditions, you need to put ammonia or something to make ammonia in the tank. Some people buy pure ammonia and put it in the tank, others put fish food or parts of frozen shrimp and let it decompose to make ammonia. We are aiming to have 2 ppm of ammonia. I recommend purchasing and using ammonia but any method gets the job done.


When using fish food or frozen shrimp, you can see it start to decompose around day 3-4. Use the water test kit at this time to test for ammonia. Bacteria starts to grow around 1-2 weeks later. If you tested too much ammonia, take out the decomposing waste and do a little water change. 


If your tank is registering ammonia at around 2 ppm, wait 1 week then test the water every 2 days to watch the ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite levels. 

Any time you reach the optimal levels listed above, the tank is ready and you can add the fish.



For those that want a quick water cycle, it can help to purchase live bacteria in a bottle. Some say that this product does not work at all. I think that since this product contains live bacteria it is sensitive to temperature, and while it is in storage or while it is being shipped, if the product is placed in a too hot or too cold temperature, it can kill all of the bacteria. If this happens, it would be impossible for the consumer to know so it is a bit of a risk. 


There are different types of live bacteria so if interested, you can research the best product for you and use it. I personally use and like Tetra Quick Starter Plus. In America, this product has a 100% satisfaction guaranteed or full money back so it is very convenient to try. I don’t know if this policy works in Korea or other countries. 


When using live bacteria, it is best to use it after ammonia is produced. The bacteria would starve to death without ammonia in the tank then there would be no point in adding bacteria.


Some live bacteria products claim that you can use their product after setting up your tank with the live fish and the cycle will be complete right away. I do not know if this will work. If someone has tried it, please let me know and I will try it and write a review.



Thank you for taking the time to read this article. 


Have a good day.


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